April 16, 2009
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I was late getting back from work last night, so for dinner we had some sautéed salmon, some boiled lentils, and some Hollandaise sauce right out of Ruhlman’s Ratio. That’s the point of ratios: if there are just the two of you, you don’t need to make a while cup of Hollandaise, and so you don’t need two sticks of butter.

Oh, it was good. Which brings us to the nub: between the popovers and the biscuits and the Hollandaise and the gougères and the creme patisserie in blackberry tarte, not to mention Ruhlman’s lemon bars, our consumption of butter has increased dramatically.

OK: tastes good. We try not to eat too much. We try to even out the strain. We try not to worry: food shouldn't be anxious. Still: butter?